Edinburgh

Historic Capital with a Modern Spirit

by Sue Innes and Hans Thommen (adapted from Cross Talk June 1996)

Edinburgh (pop. 500,000) has been the capital of Scotland since the 15th century. Administrative centre of the Lothian region on the bank of the Firth of Forth. Cultural centre of the nation. Seat of the Scottish Presbyterian Church and the roman Catholic archbishop. Several universities and research institutes, major centre of banking, insurance and commerce. Industry; breweries, whisky distilleries, printing and publishing, apparel and textile manufacture, electronics, light indust ry. Major port on the Scottish coast.

Old and new

Blossoms from the cherry trees in the Canongate churchyard are swirled across the road by the wind. Drifts lie along the gutters like late, pink snow. The church has glittering gold stag antlers at the apex of the roof, symbol of a miracle in 1128. Vis itors from Europe, America and the Far East sit in the sunshine under the trees, schoolchildren shout and shriek in the playground nearby; students pass on their way to the university.

In the Old Town of Edinburgh history and everyday life are side by side and visitors from all over the world mingle with local people going about their business on the "Royal Mile." This street is called royal because it runs between Edinburgh Castle, brooding on its high rock above the city, and Holyrood Palace, created by the Stuart kings of Scotland and court of the tragic Mary Queen of Scots. Now the street holds the law Courts and Cathedral, but also pubs and cafes and many small shops - tartans and designer knitwear and cashmere are specialties.

Across the gardens below is the Castle in the New Town - it was new in 1750 when building began. It is considered the finest example of Georgian architecture and town planning in Britain. It is spacious and formal, the elegant streets form a grid plan north from Princess Street, Edinburgh's main shopping street, and west from St. Andrew's Square, the home of banking and the town's financial community, though the financial centre under construction at the other end of Princes Street and the nearby new International conference Centre are important new developments.

Edinburgh is the historic capital of Scotland, and although the country has been part of Great Britain for almost 300 years it has a distinctive cultural and political life and a vigorous independence movement. The Scots have always looked outwards to Europe, and the world. Edinburgh is a small city with strong international links and the wish to strengthen them. It was rated the top city in Britain for business, and homes, shops, offices, schools and nurseries are all part of this community, which merges the historic, the modern, and an eagerness to look to the future.

The Highlands

Edinburgh is also gateway to the north - via the magnificent one-hundred-year-Old Forth Bridge. The visitor who seeks to really know Scotland must travel to the Highlands. Misty, mountainous, fissured by glens, salmon rivers and high passes, this is th e last of Europe's wilderness areas, home to herds of wild deer, sea otters, the wildcat, eagles and osprey. It is remote but not out of touch a crofter practising small-scale agriculture may also work internationally in an on-line computer "cottage."

A revival in Gaelic, Scotland's second language, and in Celtic culture encompasses art, music and poetry and the tradition of the ceilidh - a gathering for music, dance and good talk. At village Feisan (traditional music festivals) children learn to pl ay the pipes, the fiddle and the clarsaich (the Celtic harp). The renaissance takes many popular forms, reinventing tradition for a new century. Bands like Capercaillie and the Proclaimers and Celtic rockers Runrig and Wolfstone have taken it around the w orld. Among students and young people in the cities ceilidhs are as popular as clubbing, and the kilt, once worn only by Highland lairds and soldiers, is worn by fashionable young men with punk vest or a biker jacket.

Highland traditions are most visible in the Highland games held in many towns and villages in the summer. Small or large, they mix carnival entertainment, piping, athletics and ancient feats of strengths such as tossing the caber and putting the stone, while young girls measure the intricate steps of Highland dancing above the crossed swords. Piping competitions, with dozens of bagpipes tuning up at once, have to be heard to be believed.

LIVING GOLF HISTORY

Ten years before the Royal and Ancient was founded in the golfing mecca of St. Andrews, the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers was formed as the first golf club in the world. Thirteen rules were set down in writing in 1744 - the beginning of today 's golfing rules. Despite being the worlds's oldest club, Edinburgh's Honourable Company has by no means the oldest course. Its current Muirfield location was opened 'only' in 1892, although today it ranks as one of the most famous courses in the world. T om Morris constructed the original 18 holes at Muirfield, and in the late 1920s the links were reworked by Cot and Harris to create the layout that is played today.

Like St. Andrews to the north, Muirfield has a tradition rich in both history and legend. This course on the Firth of Forth has been the scene of a number of memorable sporting events: in addition to the Ryder Cup (1973), the British Open has been stag ed her no fewer than 14 times, with others certain to follow in the future.

In addition to the 600 members of the Honourable Company, 'ordinary' golfers also have the chance to play a round on this venerable course. But the following should be borne in mind: guests are only permitted to play on Tuesdays and Thursdays and must have a handicap of at least 18 for men and 24 for ladies. Reservations must generally be made months in advance. If you are among the lucky ones who have the opportunity to play this celebrated course, make sure to hire a caddie. The investment of 25 (inc luding tip) is worthwhile since he will let you know the fight put line to take, will be able to tell you precisely where you are at all times, and he will point our fairway bunkers that you would not even have imagined before teeing off. Added to which, it's easier for you to keep your hands in the dry when the weather is wet. This is a textbook links course hallmarked by absolutely first-class greens and those 'deadly' bunkers. The clubhouse is a gem of a golfing museum, and the honourable bearing of the honourable members makes a major contribution to the atmosphere. A game here is a very special experience. For more information, suggestions, assistance contact Dr. Robert Scott, Napier University, Sighthill Court, Edinburgh, EH11 4BN (Tel. +131-455-3471, Fax: +131-455-3486).

Join Napier University staff and WACRA members from around the world for an exciting and stimulating interdisciplinary, intercultural conference on Case Method Teaching and Learning in 1997 (June 29 - July 2).